Stage 10: September 13, 2012 -- (Anti-)climax

123.5 miles, 12,934 feet
Strava: http://app.strava.com/rides/21870357

Gavia, or no? We headed out in the near dark in damp cold conditions towards the Gavia. Phil had sent a vehicle up ahead to test conditions. I knew it would be frigid on the Gavia if we got there. I had climbed it and the Mortirolo as part of the Pantani Gran Fondo in 2007, and it was chilly on the Gavia even though it was hot on the Mortirolo. I was hoping to do these climbs again, though, since they are among the best in Italy. After we had gone for about five minutes, Phil got a call that snow and black ice had effectively stranded the vehicle on the Gavia and we headed back.

No Hampsten for us, but there was also no gravel to make the descent safe as there was in 1988 -- just black ice.

We headed down the valley so we could climb the Mortirolo from Monno -- not the easiest way, but not the most difficult, either. It still tested legs tenderized by nine previous stages, though, and it was cold at the top. Then time for the up and down "descent" towards Edolo ....

 Nick crests the Mortirolo

 We were supposed to be where the snow is

 Nippy and icy up here as well

 Jake!

  We then hit Aprica, where we had to take refuge in a cafe until the rescued signing van and lunch could be set up. After hot chocolate and some snacks, we had a long descent and a flat section on some busy roads to ... lunch! There warm clothes were shed for the most part, and we headed for the Vivione, a 20km, gorgeous climb ... Everyone seemed to be enjoying themsleves on this one!

 Another snack at the cafe, and then on to the chilly, rip roaring descent!

I then ran into Ole, and we ended up rding the last two climbs more or less together.

We joked our way up the Presolana, 9km with several 14% pitches to the next rest stop ... any Giro climb has to have some steep kickers, of course.

Rest stop ho!

I took off a bit early down the valley road since I just wanted to ride my own pace -- that proved to be wise since the Danish duo of Ole and Lars were hammering and I just wanted to save energy for the final climb ... another 9km with some steep sections (it was used in the 2011 Giro). I rejoined them on the climb and we headed for home ... it felt strange to be doing the 105th col, with only downhill to go. I was really going to get my CCC patch and complete the entire challenge .... It was both thrilling and melancholy, to be sure.

 Ole at the top!

 Lars cresting the Ganda!

  Random Italians in front of the sign ...

 

 

Perhaps I was just elated, but after trying to wait a bit I just blew down the descent and through the bike path into San Pellegrino Terme ....

 

 

 

How can you sum up two weeks, 1200 miles and 160,000 feet of climbing?

I just had wine and gelato with my new riding buddies and just tried to soak it all in .... real life would be back soon enough ....  

Stage 9: September 12, 2012 -- Hints of Hampsten?

114 miles, 10,039 feet
Strava: http://app.strava.com/rides/21870339

Did you catch this? Phil underestimated the climbing for once (should have been 13,000 feet)! What one should never underestimate is how tough weather can make any bike ride ....

This entry will be low on photos (not much stopping in the eventual rain), so apologies in advance.

We started out with some gentle climbs through small villages that had more of a South Tyrolean character, and, despite suffering badly, I found a rhythm after the first descent to the feed stop, where I rode with Seven Simon.

Then we had a long stretch of mildly disorganized pacelining through the Weinstrasse. We thought we had made a wrong turn, and then we were out the back for a while. I caught Jen (who was drafting an apple truck), Sergio caught me (after calling to make sure we were on course -- not that he was bitter), and then I pulled until we were more or less back in the fray.

We passed such wineries as Tramin and Kaltern and I was dreaming of a Speck panini ... I tried to find one quickly but then just headed up the Mendelpass/Passo Mendola. A great climb, 15km at 6.5% average, steady, switchbacks, woods. About half way up the rain started and it got colder. By the top it was pouring, and luckily the feed stop had been moved to the top with drop bags! I did hit the curb wrong though and had a nice clipped in fall over on the cobbles just before the tent. Doh! (and thanks Jake and Chris for helping me up!)



I put on booties, knee warmers, long fingered gloves and a rain jacket and took off for lunch. The first few kms were cold, but then I felt ok and ambled to lunch. At least one of us was rushed into the front seat of a heated van at lunch to ward off hypothermia, so maybe I was just numb ... I was missing my heavier jacket for sure.

After lunch I headed out towards the Tonale, which really is a miserable climb. A long false flat along the valley, where the redeeming feature was a gas station for a  snack to keep my energy topped up. I felt I dealt with the cold well, though, and as the road kicked up I gave my back one quick stretch and just stopped for some photos along the way.




The photos below are of the nice part of the climb and then the ugly top, which does have an interesting WWI memorial -- it is still shocking to think of how many died in these beautiful mountains in the Great War ....

 The dreaded descent! It was freezing, and when a herd of sheep tried to cross, i went past a car, clipped out and weaved my way through so i would not have to stop. I made it shaking and shivering into Ponte di Legno, thinking that the Gavia would be snowed in for tomorrow -- Hampsten weather?



Nick luckily stuffed us full of hot chocolate as soon as we got in, and we got Justin into something dry just as he bagan to lose all coherence ...

Phil, of course, was confident at our briefing that the Gavia would be passable since it was supposed to clear overnight, but we would see and head out at 6am the next morning for the final stage to find out ...

Stage 8: September 11, 2012 -- Different Dolomiti

130 miles, 18,219 feet
Strava: http://app.strava.com/activities/21646674?segment_created=true

The one good thing about the steep uphill finish yesterday was a downhill start!
Of course, Phil made sure we were climbing in the first 10km. A few narrow, rural climbs with some minor gravel descents to start, then a long, shallow climb (24km) up to the Passo Branchetto.

At the first feed we got a beautiful surprise with pasteries and fruit tarts! Yummm ... and the riders who decided to bail on that day and help out in the vans were more generous than the CCC staff with those pasteries, I have to say ;)

A wild view from the top!

A quick descent and then a climb up the easy side of the Fittanze -- we got to see how brutal a climb it is on the way down to lunch ... some people rode on iffy tires, broken spokes, etc. down that one (Rob, Justin)

After lunch it was off to a very hot, and long climb ... the del Creer. For the first 10km or so it would was a good steady slog, but then we were pointed left and the gradient went into the high teens for a while! After yesterday's under reported climbing I was ready to wait for Phil with my frame pump in hand, but stretched my back, stopped for some food, took a few photos and took my time to the top, knowing the Santa Barbara to come was a tough climb, and the final climb from Riva del Garda would inflict a toll as well. Truth be told, I thought this would be the day my quest to bag all the cols would end in failure ....

I bombed down the descent, found the bike path that should lead to the Passo Santa Barbara, and then was stumped until Phil came by and we saw the arrow across the traffic circle. I was climbing well, but still needed to take breaks for my back. I did sit on a local cyclist who kept trying to drop me as soon as he saw me catching him ... there was no way I was going to speed up or slow down on his account, and made it to the last feed a saw Phil, Jake, Jen, Dave (no planes), etc.

A great technical descent followed where we came upon Simon, whose ankle had finally swollen to epic proportions and had somewho ridden this far! Chapeau! Phil called in the troops to get him and the rest of us headed off for Riva del Garda and the final climb. I let them go after a few km so I could stretch and just ride my own wacky, inconsistent rhythm ... it was a glorious climb since I was in an anti-social mood and the scenery was glorious. I came in just behind for a great dinner, mixing both Italian and Austrian influences ....

I was starting to think this was indeed possible!

Forecast: Rain; Disposition: Sunny

Stage 7: September 10, 2012 -- False Advertising

116.7 miles, 16,734 feet
Strava: http://app.strava.com/rides/21572356
Phil had promised 188km and 4,000m of climbing (an "easy day"), so he was spot on in terms of distance but off by over 3,700 feet or 1100 meters elevation (more on that later).

I rolled out of bed, shattered, to find that almost everyone had gone early, and only a few of the strongest riders remained. So, that meant I was son lantern rouge up the first steep climb of the day to the Passo Vezzena. By Strava results I was mid-pack, but Andy was waiting for me to take down the arrows and it had a real broomwagon feel, which did not help my suffering body and mind. I did take a picture overlooking Levico/Caldonazzo, though, to remind me of the gorgeous climb and the man below who made my bike ....

 

At the first feed I saw some other riders and then had some company, which helped my mood immensely, so much so I was singing out loud ....

 

 

 Another col down!



 

Onwards, lads!

 

 

The next climb was relatively mellow, but was again looking for water by the time the Campogrosso hit, especially since we were on another cycle only path for a while on the way up  ... got a great coke at the top, courtesy of Sergio who was quaffing an espresso ...

 

 

We ran into Canada Rob and started a series of col hunting, often just climbing up 500m to turn around and go back down, which gave the whole thing an air of whack-a-mole ... Sergio was strong on the climbs, so I took it mellow on the descents so we could ride together ... Canada Rob muttered something about crushing me up the final climb and took off ...

 

 

 

Sergio and I noticed the climbing was well more than advertised, but we headed up the final climb in good spirits -- 7km, steep, but food and shelter lay ahead.

 

Phil also forgot that this climb included multiple 18% ramps and seemed to go on forever, like a miniZoncolan without the km markers.

 

He did admit his error, and the family style Italian food at the Rifugio was wonderful -- it almost made me forget the epic day on tap for tomorrow!



 



Stage 6: September 9, 2012 -- Dolomite Grit and a Bonk

128 miles, 16, 528 feet
Strava: http://app.strava.com/rides/21406882

Despite the rest and short ride the day before, Stage 6 was mentally tough from the get go. Some riders had skipped some climbs previously, now some were going home, which sounded good.

With heavy legs and a heavy heart, I headed out towards the San Pellegrino, foregoing that superb breakfast and heading back into full suffer mode ...

The San Pellegrino was fine if a bit tough for a "soft climb" as Phil had called it, and then it was up the Valles, or "true Dolomite grit" in Phil's words. This might have been the one time he oversold a climb, since I plugged away at about 200w and had no major issues. One more "easy" climb up the Passo Rolle to breakfast ....

The next big climb to the Passo Lavaze was a two stage affair, with the relatively steady 6-7km until the split with the alpe di pampeago (glad we were not going there), and then it ramped up with some nice 14-16% sections to the pass. Of course, we could not stop there but had one more small "col" to go on an out and back before we could refuel at the feed stop. Phil unfortunately took a tumble on the way down due to some gravel and had to write off his Parlee ... he dusted himself off and would be on a spare bike in future ....

After a few bumps (e.g., 3km at 8.5%) and a long ride along the ridge near Bolzano, we headed for lunch, where it was heating up.

I got to the base of the main climb, the Passo Manghen, thinking I needed a snack but not wanting to wander into town to look for it. I hoped I would find something on the climb, which would average 10% over the final 8km and was 16.4km at an average of 7.5%. Unfortunately the bar 2km in was closed, so I grabbed some water and a salt tablet about 6km in ...

 

 

After that it gets foggy ... bonk, leapfrog with Jake (thanks for the Endurolyte), watching Sergio shake his head as I just keeled over in the dirt, getting up just to have crazy cows block my way (and Phil laughing as they did from the van, taking pictures of the cows (and me) -- photo below courtesy of Phil)

 

 

 

 

I made it to about 500m from the top and then saw a cafe! I inhaled some food, not knowing we had a feed stop at the top ... No matter, I had enough gas to roll into Levico Terme (but not enough time to meet Dario Pegoretti).

 

 

 

There I said goodbye to another rider who was heading home, and I considered doing likewise. I had never been this long without my bride and boys, and I really missed them.  I then had dinner in the senior center that was disguised as a hotel, and got ready for another day. Two riders said they would leave early ... I planned to sleep in an extra half hour ....

September 8, 2012: Rest Day

What is a rest day?

It involves:
sleeping in until about 8
an amazing breakfast
laundry
washing bike
short ride
massage
great dinner

Phil unfortunately let us know that we would have to forego this incredible breakfast the next day since we needed to get over the first pass (San Pellegrino) before it would be closed for a pro MTB race .... I nipped a second helping of desert upon hearing the news.

After a rest day, I was still unbelievably exhausted, and was really missing my family -- was 50 cols enough? Probably ....

Stage 5: September 7, 2012 -- The Classics

98 miles, 15,749 feet
Strava: http://app.strava.com/rides/21166112

Today was all the classics, though done counter clockwise. Giau, Valparola, Gardena, Sella, Pordoi, Campolongo. Then the boogeyman of the Fedaia loomed, a climb even Gibo Simoni didn't much care for. I had done all the climbs other than the Fedaia the other way, and frankly that was the only thing keeping me going since I felt horrible from both a gastro-intestinal perspective and my back pain. Thankfully this would be the low point physically, but I could not know that at the time. I just told myself to make it to lunch, and then see from there. The other thing bolstering me was the fact I love Alta Badia and the Ladin culture. We would see more German motorcycles than Ladin costumes, but this was still tourist season in the Dolomites ...

I started later with some of the faster folks, so I was soon at the back until we caught up to some earlier starters. As usual, Ole rode as if he could tear my legs off at any time, but just chose not to ...

The climbs of the Sella Ring are well known, so I will let the views speak for themselves here.

 Andy

 

Ole

 

 

Only the climb to the Campolongo remained to lunch: Canada Rob nicked some gravel and then had a cheeky spill in Arraba. Bummer, eh? He would just get some tape for his broken shoe and continue kicking ass, of course (no pics).

 

So, Fedaia, or no? I decided to go for it, especially since we would be hitting the narrow road that is for pedestrians and cyclists only (2 Euros for cyclists) that the Giro uses before rejoining the pitiless slog that is the Fedaia. The beginning was magical, if steep ...

 

 

 

 After seeing Tim "Poulidor" fly by and chatting with Lars, it was a solitary trudge through the 12-14% ramps until the first cafe appeared. I then grabbed two cokes, chugged them down and headed for the top ... through the 15% ramps Phil failed to mention ....

 

 Coke!

 Yikes (look up and left)!

 Cool dudes all smiles ...

 

Jen rocking the house (just wait for week 2!)

 

 

Rather than linger at the top I bombed down past the glacier to Canazei, and got ready for a rest day! Had anyone said I would have done all the climbs up to this point, I would have laughed, but with each day I became more determined not to drop one.

 

I had dinner with the Canadian contingent (Rob, Sergio, Norm, Terry) and enjoyed a wonderful meal and great Lagrein!

 

Andiamo! 

 

 



Stage 4 -- Savage Beauty: September 6, 2012

Chiaulis -- Cortina d'Ampezzo
137.8 miles, 19,095 feet
Strava: http://app.strava.com/rides/21076836

I will go out on a limb a say that a number of us were nervous about the Zoncolan, which was coming after 20km. It is widely regarded as the hardest climb in Italy the Giro uses, 10.5 km at 11.5% average, with 6km at an average of 15%. Phil told us to look for the image of Indurain at km 4.9, and the worst would be over ....

 As usual, Phil was a bit "optimistic" on the details, but more on that later. I took off with the group, which insisted on pulling quite quickly to Ovaro, the base of the climb. I knew I would be grinding a 34x29, since Giro winners had used the same gear on this climb and they were both lighter and much more powerful than I. I could not pull very effectively on the bars with my left, so I "compensated" with my core/back, which would come back to bite me since I more or less pulled it here. On the upside, I made the climb non-stop, met an Italian "Piemonte" who laughed with me on the absurdity of this climb. I had no desire to push the pace since I knew we were in for quite a day with about 15,000 feet and 120 miles left after this beast.

 

Piemonte and I at the top

 

 

 Poulidor

 Rob (CH) and Tim

 Bravo

Evidence! Go Simon!

 

 

After breathing a quick sigh of relief we set off for our next "testing" loop. The Forcella Luis was about 5km at 9% with a wicked kick for a start, just to let us know that it would still be steep. I got a coke (or two) at the top of the next climb, and got set for the long slog to lunch, and 30km climb that seemed to go on forever.

 

 

Canada Rob hung with me for a bit before muttering something disparaging about my gearing and taking off into the distance. We had been promised wonderful gnocchi (made with Zucca, or a squash like a sweet potato, but much better -- see Marcella Hazan on this point) at the refugio at the top of the climb, so who could blame him? Strava recorded 16 miles at 4.7%, an easy climb in theory but the grade was very inconsistent and it seemed to go on forever at this point in the stage. I stretched a few times, took some photos, etc. (this is the pattern for most long climbs now, so no need to allude to it each time ;) ).

 

 

Lunch!

 

 

Lunch was even better than promised .... gnocchi, Speck, cheese, etc. But it was getting late and there was much riding to do ....

 

 

Next up was a 6km, 9% climb ... I felt good climbing and my back held out for most of it ...

 

 There goes Tim again (flying by as I inhale a banana)!

 Top of the Passo San Antonio

 

 

At this point just two long, but not overly tough climbs to go .... the Monte Croce and the Tre Croci

 

 

I should mention two things here. I studied the road book but generally relied on the yellow arrows put out on course by the lead van at critical intersections. We also had photographers from Rapha following us for the first four stages ... The arrow after the descent had turned into the mountain, so that was obviously incorrect. I then checked the signs and turned left towards the Monte Croce, only to be waived off by the Rapha photo dudes and told to turn right. I did, but soon figured i was wrong after descending and not seeing any other arrows. As I stopped, two other riders (the two Tims) passed me, going further downhill. I called and figured out I was indeed of course. The Rapha dudes then showed up, admitted their mistake, and I had them go and tell the Tims they needed to turn back. This increased the distance not only to the finish but to the next rest stop and water, which I really needed. Daylight would be an issue as well, so I hurried on, where I ran into Jake and Simon ....

 

 

 

 Good news -- rest stop came relatively quickly; bad news -- drop bag with the light was not there ...

 

 

I chowed some food, and hurried on. Racing daylight, and fighting a seizing back, I headed up towards lake Misurina. First the two Tims rejoined, then dropped me once I stopped to stretch (not that they were not faster anyway), and I climbed into the sunset, happily

 

 Bye, Tims!

 Misurina

 

 

Once I got to the top of the climb, a van pulled up and asked me not to descend in the dark to Cortina .... a good call. I got all the cols, and it would be the only time on the trip I was ever in the van. I did not mind missing a descent in the dark.

 

 

We took quick showers at our nice hotel, and then scurried off for dinner in town. A glass of wine was in order for sure! One more day until the rest day!